London Fashion Week, often celebrated as a launchpad for emerging designers rather than just big names, kicked off on Thursday with a heartfelt tribute to one of its enduring figures, Paul Costelloe. The Irish-American designer, who passed away last November at 80, had been a fixture on LFW’s opening day since the show began in 1984. Over four decades, his romantic and refined collections witnessed the ebb and flow of London Fashion Week, even as some major brands migrated to Milan, Paris, and New York.
Carrying forward his legacy, Costelloe’s son, William, now serves as creative director. Ahead of the Autumn/Winter 2026 show, the brand posted on social media: “A new season. A powerful moment. A legacy moving forward.” The opening also highlighted fresh talent, including British-Nigerian designer Tolu Coker, whose 2018-launched label presents elegant, mostly unisex designs inspired by diverse identities.
Returning to the London runway are notable names like Harris Reed and Richard Quinn, while Burberry will close the week in its signature style. Royal favorites such as Emilia Wickstead, Edeline Lee, and Erdem also bring regal flair, having dressed Princess Catherine. Jonathan Anderson, the Northern Irish designer now heading Dior, will not present this season, reflecting London’s ongoing challenge of retaining star designers amid global competition.
Despite this, London continues to nurture rising talent. The British Fashion Council’s NewGen program supports emerging designers, helping them gain visibility and funding. Alumni like Simone Rocha, Tolu Coker, and Roksanda have become consistent LFW highlights after debuting on NewGen’s platform.
Among the new generation is Joshua Ewusie, 27, a London-born designer of Ghanaian heritage, preparing for his second LFW show with his brand E.W.Usie. Supported by the King’s Foundation in partnership with Chanel, he benefited from studio space soon after graduating from Central Saint Martins. Ewusie’s collection draws from the 1980s era when his mother moved to London, blending leather with themes of culture and identity.
French designer Pauline Dujancourt, known for her knitwear, also chose London over Paris for her show. “Paris is incredible, and I dream of showing there one day,” she said, “but London gives more space for young brands to grow at the start.” She believes London Fashion Week remains a hub for fresh ideas and emerging voices, offering a stage that celebrates newness alongside tradition.
Zoyols Blog will be watching closely as London balances honoring its legends and fostering the designers shaping its future.
